C the difference

Is there anything Vitamin C isn’t good for? Maybe not a papercut, but other than that, it’s pretty stellar stuff in all of its forms. Naturally, as an esthetician, one of my favorite Vitamin C forms is a skin strengthening serum. Here’s why:

VITAMIN C PLAYS DEFENSE

Protects Against Free Radicals
Extrinsic (environmental) pollutants cause our skin cells damage. Fortunately, the benefits of vitamin C in skin care help protect against free radical damage which slows visible signs of aging. Free radicals are chemically unstable, unpaired electrons that hunt down other electrons in an effort to stabilize themselves. All bodily cells are vulnerable, but skin cells take the brunt, which eventually shows up in the mirror.

VITAMIN C CREATES GLOW

Brightens Your Complexion
Vitamin C inhibits an enzyme called tyrosinase. Tyrosinase is responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin, thus preventing hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C, which requires routine use to maintain results, visibly brightens by evening skin tone and strengthening skin. Strong skin is better able to retain moisture and regulate melanogenesis, which in turn becomes balanced. Balanced melanogenesis means clear, even toned skin as mottled discoloration fades. Pretty cool series of events, right?
 

THERE’S A C FOR EVERYONE

Types of Vitamin C you want in your topical skincare. 

A potent antioxidant, and key player in collagen formation, Vitamin C comes in multiple forms whose benefits work for every skin.

L-Ascorbic acid is the purest form of vitamin C and provides superior antioxidant defense compared to any of its acid derivatives but can be incredibly irritating to the skin so I don't recommend. This form of Vitamin C is also highly unstable and can oxidize with repeat exposure to air and light. It changes into a pro-oxidant and is no longer suitable for use. 

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a gentle and stable form of Vitamin C, an antioxidant, regulates collagen synthesis and lightens pigmentation.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is one of the most stable forms of vitamin c, at 5% it has been shown to dramatically reduce acne lesions.  This superstar ingredient also works dramatically on post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) yielding dramatic results within as little as 8 weeks.  *It can be important to note that where PIH is concerned, it will often appear as though nothing is happening between 0-6 weeks, then between the 8 - 12 week mark is where we will generally see drastic reduction.

Newer stabilized derivatives of vitamin C, including magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate are used to control melanogenesis (our skin’s melanin production factory). All of these derivatives have been shown to inhibit tyrosinase synthesis and activity.

IS ANYTHING BETTER THAN VITAMIN C?

Over time, preventative Vitamin C, originally introduced in skincare as a power preventative, visibly improves skin clarity, skin texture, and the appearance of fine lines. It is a mainstay of an age fighting home skin care regimen. As a potent antioxidant, Vitamin C not only works to combat oxidative stress, but also provides much needed support to other elements of healthy skin, such as:

  • It helps support the skin’s immune response which has shown to be compromised with regular sun exposure.
  • Supports the effectiveness of SPF and protects the skin against burns
  • Vitamin C is essential for the production of collagen within the skin
  • Vitamin C is known to be the primary replenisher of vitamin E, which similar to vitamin C, is rapidly depleted after UV exposure
  • Different forms of Vitamin C have been shown to have effective benefits for lightening and preventing pigmentation like 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid 

I’M A DIY GIRL, CAN I CRUSH VITAMIN C TABLETS AND RUB THE PASTE ON MY FACE?

No. No, you can’t. Manufactured products are scientifically engineered with formula stability, skin structure, skin pH and safety in mind. It is highly likely that not only will you burn your skin, you’ll reap zero benefit and face months of barrier repair.

I’M A MULTI-TASKER, CAN I APPLY MY AHA AND RETINOID PRODUCTS WITH MY VITAMIN C?

With an alpha-hydroxy acid, cautiously, yes, but the product manufacturer guidelines prevail. The Triple Threat Serum is fantastic to use with the Advanced Brightening Serum as they both combat acne and pigmentation simultaneously. Some manufacturers have special balanced formulas that mesh retinol with C but that is a proprietary balance of chemistry that should not be assumed for 2 separate products. When in doubt, ask or stick to Vitamin C in the morning and your retinoid at night. During the day, commit to a broadband sunblock to prevent photodamage. 

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I APPLY MY VITAMIN C SERUM?

Decide whether you want to apply your Vitamin C am or pm and stick with it. During the day, commit to a broadband sunblock to prevent photodamage. I recommend using Vitamin C products in the AM and if your skin is a candidate for it, a Vitamin A in the PM.

HOW QUICKLY SHOULD I REALIZE VISIBLE RESULTS?

Everyone’s routine and skin condition is different, but you may see visible improvement in skin texture, color and tone within a few days. Lines and wrinkles will take several months to improve significantly if your home routine is cohesive. During the day, commit to a broadband sunblock to prevent photodamage.


Now that you know your Vitamin C, check out my top selling Vitamin C rich product for optimal skin health:


VITAMIN C PRO TIP: SPF and antioxidants are BFF's. UV light attacks collagen and elastin, but an extra dose of antioxidants can help head oxidative by-products off at the pass.

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