You like simple. You might respect the use of 14 products per night, or even wish you had the time and inclination, but it’s not for you. All the same, preserving your skin health and
maintaining a youthful glow is important. What to do?
Enter Vitamin A, one of the best smart aging agents available to the modern skincare world, whether you’re under the care of a surgeon, a nurse, or a clinical esthetician.
Available in multiple forms including retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, palmitate ester, retinyl acetate, acetate ester, or retinyl palmitate, retinoids all have a similar effect – cell differentiation and proliferation. Retinoid’s one big job (one it does well), is multifaceted. Cellular turnover, brightening, non-inflammatory acne prevention, line smoothing,
collagen boosting, and antioxidant provision. It’s pretty great.
Retinol ==> Retinaldehyde ==> Retinoic acid
One step removed from Rx retinoic acid, OTC retinol doesn’t work quite as quickly as Rx acid, but it is equally effective. Powerful and easily accessible, retinoids are highly effective in treating acne, lined skin, and hyperpigmentation.
7 RETINOID TIPS
1. Seek airless packaging to prevent degradation by heat, air and light.
2. Find and use liberally a broadband sunblock you love. Retinoids trigger photosensitivity.
Apply and reapply. (we like to use a clean foundation brush for quick, seamless application that doesn’t disturb our makeup.
3. Keep an eye on changes in fragrance. When retinoids age, their scent may turn. A change in fragrance may indicate a loss of efficacy.
4. Seek microencapsulated, OTC retinol. You do not have to get a prescription retinoid for
maximum efficacy. Small molecular size, non-prescription retinoids absorb beautifully into all five epidermal layers where it converts to tretinoin.
5. If the brand you select does not use specific technology to prevent the breakdown of
retinoids by acids, use your acid based serums and retinoid based serums at different times of day to prevent the retinol from being oxidized and neutralized.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4633208/
6. There’s little to no reason to take a break from your retinoid. The whole point is to sustain cellular turnover.
7. Is it ever too early to begin retinoid use? Early 20’s when skin has reached its maturation
cycle and collagen begins to decline is optimal, paired with a lifetime of topical antioxidant
infusion and sunblock maintenance.
My top pick for retinol skin revision: Renew Vitamin A Serum | 95.00
PRO TIP: Retinol degrades quickly when exposed to light and air. Apply retinol to freshly cleansed skin for maximum absorption, then immediately apply your favorite hydrating serum before moisturizing. If irritation occurs you may want to stagger the nights you apply until your skin better tolerates the retinoid.